Study on separation method of wind-wave and swell in the Taiwan Strait

Lin Yi’nan; Tao Aifeng; Li Xueding; Zheng Xiangjing; Yin Shuo

doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.11.003

Volume 41 Issue 11

Turn off MathJax

Article Contents

Article Navigation > Haiyang Xuebao > 2019 > 41(11): 25-34

Lin Yi’nan，Tao Aifeng，Li Xueding, et al. Study on separation method of wind-wave and swell in the Taiwan Strait[J]. Haiyang Xuebao，2019, 41(11)：25–34，doi:10.3969/j.issn.0253−4193.2019.11.003

Citation:

PDF( 0 KB)

Study on separation method of wind-wave and swell in the Taiwan Strait

doi: 10.3969/j.issn.0253-4193.2019.11.003

1.
Key Laboratory of Coastal Disaster and Defence (Hohai University), Ministry of Education, Nanjing 210098, China
2.
College of Harbor, Coastal and Offshore Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210098, China
3.
Fujian Marine Forecasts, Fuzhou 350003, China
4.
CCCC Third Harbor Consultants Co., Ltd., Shanghai 200032, China

Received Date: 2019-01-14
Rev Recd Date: 2019-04-11

Available Online: 2021-04-21

Publish Date: 2019-11-25

Abstract

Abstract

Due to the narrow tube effect, ocean waves are large and usually mixed with swell in the Taiwan Strait. Much attention has been attracted by the swells, since they have important impacts on floating structures including the ships. The separation of wind-waves and swells is a fundamental step for the research on characteristics of swells, also is a hot topic with difficulties. But the generally accepted method of separation, which is two-dimensional spectral method, is hard to use in practice due to lack of data and limitations of observation. Thus the selection of one-dimensional spectral method with high accuracy becomes a key problem in the practical. Using the two-dimensional spectral data of three wave stations in the Taiwan Strait, results of separation are obtained. Considering results of separation as well as characteristics of wind-waves and swells in the Taiwan Strait, accuracies of different one-dimensional spectral methods are calculated and compared. The results show that the PM method as a whole is more accurate than other methods. Based on results of separation, a one-dimensional spectrum method is proposed which is a combination of the improved WH method and the PM method.
- separation of wind-wave and swell,
- Taiwan Strait,
- one-dimensional spectral,
- swell,
- wind-wave

FullText(HTML)

References(20)

References

[1]	李水清, 赵栋梁. 风浪和涌浪分离方法的比较[J]. 海洋学报, 2012, 34(2): 23−29. Li Shuiqing, Zhao Dongliang. Comparisons on partitioning techniques to identify wind-wave and swell[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 2012, 34(2): 23−29.
[2]	汪炳祥, 常瑞芳, 王一飞. 风浪与涌浪的划分判据[J]. 黄渤海海洋, 1990(1): 16−24. Wang Bingxiang, Chang Ruifang, Wang Yifei. Criteria of differentiating swell from wind waves[J]. Journal of Oceanography of Huanghai and Bohai Seas, 1990(1): 16−24.
[3]	郭佩芳, 施平, 王华, 等. 划分风浪与涌浪的一个新判据——海浪成份及其在南海的应用[J]. 青岛海洋大学学报, 1997(2): 131−137. Guo Peifang, Shi Ping, Wang Hua, et al. A new criterion between wind wave and swell wave-By mixed wave composition factors and its application to the south China sea[J]. Journal of Ocean University of Qingdao, 1997(2): 131−137.
[4]	郭婷婷, 高文洋, 高艺, 等. 台湾海峡气候特点分析[J]. 海洋预报, 2010, 27(1): 53−58. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1003-0239.2010.01.010 Guo Tingting, Gao Wenyang, Gao Yi, et al. Analysis of climate characteristics in Taiwan Strait[J]. Marine Forecasts, 2010, 27(1): 53−58. doi: 10.3969/j.issn.1003-0239.2010.01.010
[5]	Tao A F, Yan J, Pei Y, et al. Swells of the East China Sea[J]. Journal of Ocean University of China, 2017, 16(4): 674−682. doi: 10.1007/s11802-017-3406-5
[6]	裴晔, 陶爱峰, 张义丰, 等. 东海E3海域低频涌浪生成机制研究[J]. 海洋湖沼通报, 2016(1): 17−24. Pei Ye, Tao Aifeng, Zhang Yifeng, et al. The generation mechanisms of low-frequency well in the E3 sea area of the East China Sea[J]. Transactions of Oceanology and Limnology, 2016(1): 17−24.
[7]	Hasselmann K, Olbers D. Measurements of wind-wave growth and swell decay during the Joint North Sea Wave Project (JONSWAP)[J]. Ergänzungzur Deutches Hydrographisches Institut, 1973, A(8), 12: 1–95.
[8]	Durden S, Vesecky J. A physical radar cross-section model for a wind-driven sea with swell[J]. IEEE Journal of Oceanic Engineering, 1985, 10(4): 445−451. doi: 10.1109/JOE.1985.1145133
[9]	黄培基, 胡泽建. 胶州湾双峰海浪频谱的表示[J]. 海洋学报, 1988, 10(5): 531−537. Huang Peiji, Hu Zejian. Representation of bimodal wave spectrum in Jiaozhou Bay[J]. Haiyang Xuebao, 1988, 10(5): 531−537.
[10]	Gerling T W. Partitioning sequences and arrays of directional ocean wave spectra into component wave systems[J]. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 1992, 9(4): 444−458. doi: 10.1175/1520-0426(1992)009<0444:PSAAOD>2.0.CO;2
[11]	Komen G J, Hasselmann K. On the existence of a fully developed wind-sea spectrum[J]. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 1984, 14(8): 1271−1285. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1984)014<1271:OTEOAF>2.0.CO;2
[12]	Earle M D. Development of algorithms for separation of sea and swell[R]. National Data Buoy Center Tech Rep MEC-87-1, NDBC, 1984: 53.
[13]	Wang D W, Hwang P A. An operational method for separating wind sea and swell from ocean wave spectra[J]. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 2001, 18(12): 2052−2062. doi: 10.1175/1520-0426(2001)018<2052:AOMFSW>2.0.CO;2
[14]	Hwang P A, Ocampotorres F J, Héctor GarcíaNava. Wind sea and swell separation of 1D wave spectrum by a spectrum integration method[J]. Journal of Atmospheric & Oceanic Technology, 2011, 29: 116−128.
[15]	Portilla, Jesús, Ocampo-Torres F J, Monbaliu J. Spectral partitioning and identification of wind sea and swell[J]. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 2009, 26(1): 107−122. doi: 10.1175/2008JTECHO609.1
[16]	Liu Y, Hao Z, Gong F, et al. Spectral separation of wind sea and swell based on buoy observations[C]// Proceeding of SPIE, Remote Sensing of the Ocean, Sea Ice, Coastal Waters, and Large Water Regions, 2015: 96380V.
[17]	Chen Z, Zhang L, Zhao C, et al. A practical method of extracting wind sea and swell from directional wave spectrum[J]. Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology, 2015, 32(11): 2147−2159. doi: 10.1175/JTECH-D-15-0092.1
[18]	Pierson W J, Moskowitz L. A proposed spectral form for fully developed wind seas based on the similarity theory of S. A. Kitaigorodskii[J]. Journal of Geophysical Research, 1964, 69(24): 5181−5190. doi: 10.1029/JZ069i024p05181
[19]	Mitsuyasu H, Tasai F, Suhara T, et al. Observations of the directional spectrum of ocean waves using a cloverleaf buoy[J]. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 2010, 5(2): 286−296.
[20]	Hasselmann K, Sell W, Ross D B, et al. A parametric wave prediction model[J]. Journal of Physical Oceanography, 1976, 6(2): 200−228. doi: 10.1175/1520-0485(1976)006<0200:APWPM>2.0.CO;2