透水珊瑚岸礁亚重力波水动力特性数值研究

王旭; 屈科; 门佳

doi:10.12284/hyxb2023118

透水珊瑚岸礁亚重力波水动力特性数值研究

doi: 10.12284/hyxb2023118

王旭^1,,
屈科^{1, 2, 3, ,},
门佳¹

1.
长沙理工大学水利与环境工程学院，湖南长沙 410114
2.
洞庭湖水环境治理与生态修复湖南省重点实验室，湖南长沙 410114
3.
水沙科学与水灾害防治湖南省重点实验室，湖南长沙 410114

基金项目: 国家重点研发计划（2022YFC3103601）；国家自然科学基金重点（51839002）；湖南省自然科学基金（2021JJ20043）；2022年长沙理工大学研究生科研创新项目（CXCLY2022071）。

详细信息

作者简介:
王旭（1997-），男，安徽省阜阳市人，主要从事波浪水动力研究。E-mail: 1026075708@qq.com

通讯作者:
屈科（1985-），男，陕西省咸阳市人，副教授，主要从事计算流体力学、海岸工程、海洋工程研究。E-mail: kqu@csust.edu.cn

中图分类号: P731.26
计量
- 文章访问数: 180
- HTML全文浏览量: 75
- PDF下载量: 39
- 被引次数: 0
出版历程
- 收稿日期: 2023-02-10
- 修回日期: 2023-04-20
- 网络出版日期: 2023-09-01
- 刊出日期: 2023-09-30

Numerical study on infragravity wave hydrodynamics of permeable fringing reef

Wang Xu^1
,,
Qu Ke^{1, 2, 3
, ,},
Men Jia¹

1.
School of Hydraulic and Environmental Engineering, Changsha University of Science & Technology, Changsha 410114, China
2.
Key Laboratory of Dongting Lake Aquatic Eco-Environmental Control and Restoration of Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China
3.
Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China

摘要

摘要: 基于非静压单相流模型（NHWAVE），对随机波浪在透水珊瑚岸礁上传播过程进行了数值模拟，综合考虑入射波高、礁坪水深、谱峰周期、透水层厚度、透水层孔隙率以及颗粒的中值粒径等因素对岸礁波浪水动力特性的影响，重点分析了短波波高、低频长波波高、平均水位的沿礁变化，并与无透水层的岸礁情况进行了对比。研究表明：透水层的存在减弱了波浪在礁前斜坡的浅水变形和在礁缘附近的波浪破碎，显著降低了岸线附近的短波波高、低频长波波高以及波浪增水值，除此之外，透水层的存在会降低波浪在岸滩的最大爬高；透水层的孔隙率和颗粒的中值粒径对波浪传播变形特征的影响可忽略不计；入射波高和谱峰周期越大，岸礁透水层对短波、长波及波浪增水的影响越显著；当增大礁坪水深时，透水层对波浪的消减作用减弱；随着透水层厚度的增大，岸线附近的短波波高、长波波高和波浪增水值随之减小。
- 透水岸礁 /
- 传播变形 /
- 低频长波 /
- 波浪增水 /
- 非静压单相流模型（NHWAVE）
Abstract: Based on the nonhydrostatic single-phase flow numerical wave model (NHWAVE), the propagation of random waves on a permeable fringing reef is simulated numerically, and the effects of incident wave height, water depth on reef flat, spectrum peak period, thickness of permeable layer, porosity and median diameters the hydrodynamic characteristics of waves on the fringing reef are considered comprehensively, focusing on the variation of sea-swell wave height, infragravity wave height and mean water level along the reef, and comparing with that of the fringing reef without permeable layer. The study shows that the existence of the permeable layer has a significant impact on the hydrodynamic characteristics of waves on the fringing reef. The study shows that the existence of the permeable layer reduces the shallow water deformation of waves on the slope in front of the reef and the wave breaking near the reef edge, and significantly decreases the sea-swell wave height, infragravity wave height, and wave setup near the shoreline, in addition to that, the existence of the permeable layer reduces the maximum wave runup on the shoreline. The greater the incident wave height and spectrum peak period, the more significant the effect of the permeable layer on the sea-swell wave, infragravity wave and wave setup on the fringing reef; when the water depth of the reef is increased, the effect of the permeable layer on wave attenuation is weakened; as the thickness of the permeable layer increases, the values of sea-swell wave height, infragravity wave height and wave setup near the shoreline decrease.
- permeable fringing reef /
- transformation deformation /
- infragravity wave /
- wave setup /
- nonhydrostatic single-phase flow numerical wave model (NHWAVE)

HTML全文

图 1 计算区域布置

Fig. 1 Calculation area layout

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图 2 工况 A低频长波波高（H_SS）、短波波高（H_IG）和平均水位（MWL）的空间分布

Fig. 2 Experiment and simulation spatial distribution of sea-swell wave height (H_SS), infragravity wave height (H_IG) and mean water level (MWL) for results for Case A

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图 3 工况 B低频长波波高（H_SS）、短波波高（H_IG）和平均水位（MWL）的空间分布

Fig. 3 Experiment and simulation spatial distribution of sea-swell wave height (H_SS), infragravity wave height (H_I_G) and mean water level (MWL) for results for Case B

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图 4 计算区域布置

Fig. 4 Caluclation area layout

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图 5 不同位置表面高程的时间序列

数据已进行无量纲化

Fig. 5 Time series of surface elevation at different locations

Data has been dimensionless

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图 6 沿礁平均波高和平均水位对比

数据已进行无量纲化

Fig. 6 Comparison of average wave height and mean water level along the reef

Data has been dimensionless

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图 7 带有透水层岸礁区域布置

Fig. 7 Computational layout for the reef with an permeable layer

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图 8 不同测点处自由液面高程的时间序列对比

Fig. 8 Comparisons of the time series of water surface elevations recorded at different wave gauges

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图 9 不同测点的波谱对比

Fig. 9 Comparison of the wave spectrum of the different wave gauges

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图 10 短波波高（${H}_{{\rm{SS}}}$）、低频长波波高（${H}_{{\rm{IG}}}$）和平均水位（${\rm{MWL}}$）的空间分布对比

Fig. 10 Comparison of the spatial distribution of sea-swell wave height (H_SS), infragravity wave height (H_IG) and mean water level (MWL)

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图 11 最大水深平均速度（u_ave,_max ）的空间分布与爬高（R_up）的时间演化对比

Fig. 11 Comparison of the maximum depth-averaged horizontal velocity (u_ave,_max) and temporal evolutions of wave runup height (R_up)

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图 12 礁坪上方水平方向平均流场对比

Fig. 12 Comparison of the horizontal average flow field above the reef plat

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图 13 不同入射波高下短波波高（${H}_{{\rm{SS}}}$）和低频长波波高（${H}_{{\rm{IG}}}$）的空间分布

Fig. 13 Spatial distributions of the sea-swell wave height (${H}_{{\rm{SS}}}$) and infragravity wave height (${H}_{{\rm{IG}}} $) under different incident wave height

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图 14 波浪增水（$\eta_r$）和最大爬高（R_{up, max}）随入射波高（H₀）的变化

Fig. 14 Variations of the wave setup ($\eta_r $) and the maximum wave runup height (R_{up, max}) with the incident wave height (H₀)

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图 15 不同礁坪水深（h_r）下短波波高（$ {H}_{{\rm{SS}}} $）和低频长波波高（$ {H}_{{\rm{IG}}} $）的空间分布

Fig. 15 Spatial distributions of the sea-swell wave height (${H}_{{\rm{SS}}} $) and infragravity wave height (${H}_{{\rm{IG}}} $) under different water depth (h_r) on reef flat

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图 16 波浪增水（$ \eta_r $）和最大爬高（R_{up, max}）随礁坪水深（h_r）的变化

Fig. 16 Variations of the wave setup ($\eta_r $ ) and the maximum wave runup height (R_{up, max}) with the water depth (h_r) on reef flat

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图 17 不同谱峰周期（T_p）下短波波高（${H}_{{\rm{SS}}}$）和低频长波波高（${H}_{{\rm{IG}}}$）的空间分布

Fig. 17 Spatial distributions of the sea-swell wave height (${H}_{{\rm{SS}}} $) and infragravity wave height ( ${H}_{{\rm{IG}}} $) under different spectrum peak period (T_p)

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图 18 波浪增水（$ \eta_r $）和最大爬高（R_{up, max}）随谱峰周期（T_p）的变化

Fig. 18 Variations of the wave setup ($ \eta_r $) and the maximum wave runup height (R_{up, max}) with the spectrum peak period (T_p)

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图 19 不同透水层厚度（d）下短波波高（${H}_{{\rm{SS}}}$）、低频长波波高（${H}_{{\rm{IG}}}$）的空间分布

Fig. 19 Spatial distributions of the sea-swell wave height (${H}_{{\rm{SS}}}$) and infragravity wave height (${H}_{{\rm{IG}}}$) under different thickness (d) of the permeable layer

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图 20 岸线附近短波波高（${H}_{{\rm{SS}}}$）和低频长波波高（${H}_{{\rm{IG}}}$）的随透水层厚度（d）的变化

Fig. 20 Variations of the the significant sea-swell wave height (${H}_{{\rm{SS}}} $) and infragravity wave height (${H}_{{\rm{IG}}}$) with the thickness of the permeable layer (d)

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图 21 波浪增水（$\eta_r $）和最大爬高（R_{up, max}）随透水层厚（d）度的变化

Fig. 21 Variations of the wave setup ($\eta_r $) and the maximum wave runup height (R_{up, max}) with the thickness (d) of the permeable layer

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图 22 不同孔隙率（n）下短波波高（${H}_{{\rm{SS}}}$）、低频长波波高（${H}_{{\rm{IG}}}$）和平均水位（MWL）的空间分布

Fig. 22 Spatial distributions of the sea-swell wave height (${H}_{{\rm{SS}}} $), infragravity wave height (${H}_{{\rm{IG}}} $) and mean water level under different permeable rate (n)

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图 23 波浪的最大爬高（R_{up, max}）随孔隙率（n）的变化

Fig. 23 Variations of the maximum wave runup height (R_{up, max}) with the permeable rate (n)

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图 24 不同中值粒径下短波波高（${H}_{{\rm{SS}}}$）、低频长波波高（${H}_{{\rm{IG}}}$）和平均水位（MWL）的空间分布

Fig. 24 Spatial distributions of the sea-swell wave height (${H}_{{\rm{SS}}} $), infragravity wave height (${H}_{{\rm{IG}}} $) and mean water level (MWL) under different nominal diameter D50

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图 25 波浪的最大爬高（R_{up, max}）随中值粒径（D50）的变化

Fig. 25 Variations of the maximum wave runup height (R_{up, max}) with the nominal diameter (D50)

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表 1 验证工况

Tab. 1 Validation working conditions

工况	H_s/m	h_r/m	T_p/s
A	0.095	0.10	1.25
B	0.101	0.0	1.0
注：H_s为有效波高，h_r为礁坪水深，T_p为谱峰周期。

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表 2 数值模拟工况设置

Tab. 2 Case setup of numerical simulation

工况	有效波高H_s/m	礁坪水深h_r/m	谱峰周期T_p/s	透水层厚度d/m	孔隙率n	中值粒径D50/m
A1	0.043 3	0.05	1.25	0	0	0
A2	0.064 95	0.05	1.25	0	0	0
A3	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0	0	0
A4	0.108 25	0.05	1.25	0	0	0
A5	0.129 9	0.05	1.25	0	0	0
B1	0.043 3	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.027
B2	0.064 95	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.027
B3	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.027
B4	0.108 25	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.027
B5	0.129 9	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.027
C1	0.086 6	0	1.25	0	0	0
C2	0.086 6	0.025	1.25	0	0	0
C3	0.086 6	0.075	1.25	0	0	0
C4	0.086 6	0.10	1.25	0	0	0
D1	0.086 6	0	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.027
D2	0.086 6	0.025	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.027
D3	0.086 6	0.075	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.027
D4	0.086 6	0.10	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.027
E1	0.086 6	0.05	0.75	0	0	0
E2	0.086 6	0.05	1.0	0	0	0
E3	0.086 6	0.05	1.5	0	0	0
E4	0.086 6	0.05	1.75	0	0	0
E4	0.086 6	0.05	2.0	0	0	0
F1	0.086 6	0.05	0.75	0.05	0.78	0.027
F2	0.086 6	0.05	1.0	0.05	0.78	0.027
F3	0.086 6	0.05	1.5	0.05	0.78	0.027
F4	0.086 6	0.05	1.75	0.05	0.78	0.027
F5	0.086 6	0.05	2.0	0.05	0.78	0.027
G1	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0	0.78	0.027
G2	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.025	0.78	0.027
G3	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.75	0.78	0.027
G4	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.10	0.78	0.027
H1	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.66	0.027
H2	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.70	0.027
H3	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.74	0.027
H4	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.82	0.027
H5	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.86	0.027
I1	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.012
I2	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.017
I3	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.022
I4	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.032
I5	0.086 6	0.05	1.25	0.05	0.78	0.037

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